A cold December wind blows through the small village of Rindschleiden, and the snow crunches under my shoes as Emil and I walk up the small road. In front of us is an old farmhouse.

“Look, Emil! This has to be the Thillenvogtei!”

We push open the heavy wooden door, and I immediately smell something which attracts me like a magnet into the house.

“Mmh, can you smell it?” I ask.

Emil sniffs. “This smells amazing…”

“We have to find out where the smell comes from!” I say, and we begin to explore the museum.

“Oh, the nursery!” There is a small wooden cradle, wooden blocks, and a doll with a crooked smile. We wander from one room to the next and feel as if we have traveled back in time.

“How modestly people used to live here,” I think to myself as I descend the stairs with Emil.

Emil sniffs again and says, “The kitchen can’t be far away!”

And indeed—the next room is warm, and there is a woman wearing a red apron standing at the table. She smiles.

“Well, you two? Did you find your way?”

“Yes!” I call out. “We followed the smell!”

“Then come here. Today is St. Nicholas Day, and we’re baking ‘Boxemännecher’. Will you help me?”

I don’t need a second to think about it. “Yes, of course!”

Emil and I knead the soft dough, shape little men, and use raisins for eyes.

“Perfect!” says the woman as she puts the men into the wood-fired oven. Now we have to wait.

We sit by the window and watch the snow falling outside. The woman tells us that the name Thillenvogtei has been around for over 300 years—wow!

Then she puts two golden-brown “Boxemännecher” in front of us. I take a bite.

“Mmm... what a great St. Nicholas Day! I’m already looking forward to exploring the nature trail in the spring!”

Emil nods enthusiastically with his mouth full.