‘Gringlee’ viewpoint
Bourscheid©Alfonso Salgueiro

Outdoors passion Of castles, trains and bikes

5 minutes

One tour, three passions

Photographer Alfonso Salgueiro has many passions that he shares with friends: outdoor adventures, cycling through Luxembourg’s picturesque landscapes and, of course, capturing places and moments on camera along the way. In this story, Alfonso describes their trip that combines all of these things, riding their bikes and hopping on the free trains around the country.

When I first arrived in Luxembourg as a foreign national, I faced the common challenges of finding friendships and adapting to a new reality, including work, studies, and language barriers.

Cycling, gravel route
Mersch, Larochette©Alfonso Salgueiro

Over time, I found the best way to integrate was by pursuing my passions and sharing them with like-minded people. For me, this included hiking, cycling, and photography. I’ve been fortunate to meet wonderful people from all over, including locals.

The symphony of the railways

Today, I want to bring all of these passions together to share with my friends. We will go on a cycling adventure and do a photo workshop together “on the road”. We meet in the ultra-modern Kirchberg district, near the Pfaffenthal funicular. As we descend to the Pfaffenthal train station, I’m again amazed by Luxembourg’s sleek and efficient public infrastructure.


Located near the Pont Rouge, the funicular connects the Luxembourg rail network with the tram, bus and cycle track. It allows passengers coming from the train to climb 40 metres in 63 seconds and continue their journey. 

Adding to the experience is the fact that all public transport in Luxembourg is free. While we wait on the platform, we share our impressions of public transport in our home countries and other places we’ve lived. We all agree that investment in public transport is one of the aspects we appreciate most about Luxembourg.

From the moment we step onto the platform, a symphony of sounds greets our ears. The announcements over the speakers, the passing trains, and the whistle from the train assistant all create a unique auditory experience. Everyone knows the familiar rhythm of a moving train: a sort of diddly-dum beat, four quick beats repeated over and over. Modern railways have made that sound almost obsolete, yet the essence of that “music of the train wheels” still lingers.

We find the bicycle carriage, marked by a white bicycle symbol on a green background. Amid the train station sounds, we board and leave the capital city. Conversations flow, turning the journey into an exchange of experiences. Before we know it, we arrive at our destination.

Cycling is most enjoyable in a group, even when skill levels differ, as it offers natural opportunities to pause and take in the scenery.

Schoenfels Castle, with a history dating back to the 12th century, is one of the castles belonging to the “Valley of the Seven Castles”. At present the renovation of the tower is underway. The plan is to install a visitor centre, as well as a Water & Forestry Museum. 

Schoenfels castle
Schoenfels©Alfonso Salgueiro

Navigating through the stations to find our various routes, it’s evident how well everything is designed to accommodate cyclists. We were particularly amused by the lateral grooves on the stairs, allowing cyclists to easily roll their bicycles up or down. It’s important to remember, however, that cycling on the platforms is strictly prohibited.

The idea of combining trains, cycling, and photography came to me during a wonderful morning spent around Bourscheid Castle with my good friend Eric Engel. Eric, a Luxembourger, is an inspiring individual – a professional musician, an excellent photographer, and an avid cyclist. We share many passions. I have always enjoyed photography, hiking, and cycling. There is so much to appreciate: the train journey, cycling through the beautiful Luxembourg countryside, capturing castles and landscapes with our cameras, and sharing enjoyable moments and great conversations along the way.


City buzz to country calm

Disembarking the train in Ettelbruck, we find ourselves deep in Luxembourg’s Éislek region in the north of the country. Our goal is to embark on a circular cycling route from Ettelbruck, aiming to take in some of the best vantage points around Bourscheid Castle.

Joining me is my British-Romanian friend, George Adam. He hasn’t been in Luxembourg long and is still adjusting, and his situation reminds me of my own early days here. We set off from Ettelbruck train station, crossing the town towards Warken, where the ascent begins, leading us through forests and fields dotted with bright red poppies.

Cyclists on the train
©Alfonso Salgueiro

Free, uncomplicated and sustainable travel on public transport: Luxembourg is the world’s first country to offer free, nationwide public transport. Travellers no longer need to buy tickets to use local, regional and nationwide trains, trams or buses.

George, an accomplished long-distance cyclist, rode from London to Luxembourg to join his partner. When I mention the long ride, he says, “It didn’t feel that hard since I did it with two good friends.” This summer, he’s planning a trip from Luxembourg to Lisbon. On our way we chat about George’s introduction to photography by his father, who taught him to develop film and make prints. George, with his keen eye, moves around to find good angles of the castle.

We pass through Bourscheid village and then enjoy a fast, scenic descent towards Bourscheid-Plage, where we stop to admire the views before we continue towards Lipperscheid. We reach the Gringlay viewpoint, a place I have visited many times but which never disappoints. It’s George’s first time here, so we set up the tripod to capture the moment, standing on the stone wall overlooking the beautiful valley of the Sûre River below. The view is spectacular.
 

  • The old monastery Marienthal is now repurposed as a home for asylum seekers and a centre for the National Youth Service.
  • From the pond in the midst of the park, to the adventure playground for the youth, the many comfortable benches and the clean paths: in Park Mersch, in the heart of Luxembourg’s Guttland region, everything has been thought of to ensure that every visitor will his favourite spot.
  • After fixing the issue of a loose valve, we enjoy our planned break at Useldange Castle, snacking and exploring the grounds to find the best angles to capture the castle’s impressive architecture.
  • Bourscheid Castle is Luxembourg’s biggest castle, an impressive structure with its characteristic round towers, situated on a steep promontory, perched 150 metres high above the Sûre river. 
Marienthal
Marienthal©Alfonso Salgueiro
Park Mersch
Mersch©Alfonso Salgueiro
Bourscheid Castle
Bourscheid©Alfonso Salgueiro
Useldange castle
Useldange©Alfonso Salgueiro

From here, we follow some field tracks and enjoy another fast, scenic descent towards Michelau. On our way back to Ettelbruck, George shares a funny anecdote from his cycling trip from London to Luxembourg. One evening, he and his two friends were near the France-Belgium border, exhausted and without food. With limited signal, they texted a friend for the nearest place to buy food and cycled 10km to a closed petrol station. After another 10 km back in the dark, they burned the only food they had: Brazilian nuts. They went to bed hungry and had to cycle 30 km the next morning to find breakfast. George says it was the best panini he’s ever had.

The castles of Meysembourg and Larochette are easily reachable by bike from Mersch. Among the various routes we’ve taken, this one passes through more wooded areas, making it a delightful experience to cycle while listening to the sounds of the forest, especially in the springtime.

Meysembourg Castle is privately owned and not open to the public, yet cycling around the area offers rewarding views. Larochette Castle, dating back to the 11th century, sits atop a hill overlooking the White Ernz valley. The vistas from the hills surrounding the castle are truly impressive.

The Valley of the Seven Castles

We find ourselves in the heart of Luxembourg’s Guttland region. Mersch boasts its own castle, one of seven in the valley, famously guarded by a dragon. Typically, our excursions lead us away from Mersch along the Alzette Cycling Way. Passing through Mersch Municipal Park in the early morning feels especially rejuvenating and provides a beautiful, easy start to our day.

Biking, Gravel
Schoenfels©Alfonso Salgueiro

Exchanging questions and tips on capturing the castle in Schoenfels with our cameras. Moving around to discover different and unique angles, unhurriedly, is key to creating more personal and memorable photographs.

As we cycle past serene fields where cows and horses peacefully graze, we reach Schoenfels and its distinctive castle, steeped in history since the 12th century. We take a break here for photography, exchanging questions and tips on capturing the castle with our cameras. One piece of advice I share is the importance of slowing down when photographing, avoiding the most cliched viewpoints where everyone stands to capture the same image. Moving around to discover different and unique angles, unhurriedly, is key to creating more personal and memorable photographs.

As we ascend towards Schoenfels Castle, my friend Nuno Fontes jokingly reminds me of my earlier claim about the route not being too strenuous. We catch our breath as we pause halfway up the hill to admire the impressive view of the castle from below.

We plan to take a break in Useldange, but upon arrival, we encounter a WWII artillery gun and notice Gritta’s bike has a puncture. “It’s a tubeless tire,” Gritta explains. Fortunately, George diagnoses the issue as a loose valve, which just needs tightening. We share a laugh, as most of us are more familiar with traditional inner tubes and find the tubeless system a bit mysterious.

After fixing the bike, we enjoy our planned break at Useldange Castle, snacking and exploring the grounds to find the best angles to capture the castle’s impressive architecture. During our journey through the Valley of the Seven Castles, we’ve discovered several stunning spots. At Hunnebuer, legend has it that Attila the Hun watered his horses during his conquest of Western Europe in the fifth century. We’ve also encountered charming old stone bridges, which I must admit I have a fondness for.

Marienthal deserves a brief stop to admire its picturesque surroundings and the setting of the old monastery, now repurposed as a home for asylum seekers and a centre for the National Youth Service. The castles of Ansembourg, both old and new, are impressive landmarks dating back to the 12th and 17th centuries respectively.

Pfaffenthal, Kirchberg station
Pfaffenthal, Kirchberg©Alfonso Salgueiro

Considering taking your bicycle on the train? Bikes are carried free of charge and no reservation is required in Luxembourg. Access is subject to space availability on the train.

Taking a short break near Septfontaines Castle, we engage in a conversation about different ways people appreciate nature. Kamilė Vaupšaitė, from Lithuania, shares an intriguing story with us. “Have you ever heard of the ‘Claude glass’?” she asks. None of us have. Kamilė explains that in 18th-century England, the Claude glass, popularised by poet Thomas Gray, was used to view scenery artistically. Users would turn their backs to the landscape, finding the reflected image in the mirror more painterly. This reminds me of modern tourists taking selfies with their backs to iconic landscapes. Kamilė adds that this way of “enjoying” nature was satirised at the time, reflecting some people’s attitudes towards nature.

Koerich’s baroque church, historic houses, and its castle are another significant stop on our journey through the valley. Returning to Mersch train station, we feel invigorated by the wonderful cycling, cultural experiences, and personal exchanges. We decide to enjoy a delicious coffee at the station’s restaurant, where we had admired the mouth-watering dishes carried by the waiters. The coffee is exceptionally good, and we all opt for a second round.

Passion Synergy

Using Luxembourg’s public transport network reduces our carbon footprint. Engaging in a sport I’ve loved since my teenage years brings joy and keeps me physically active. It allows me to appreciate the stunning outdoors and discover some of the country’s prominent landmarks. Lastly, capturing beautiful scenes and cherished moments with my camera creates lasting memories. It’s an all-encompassing experience that I highly recommend to anyone seeking fulfilling and enjoyable activities, along with the numerous attractions Luxembourg has to offer.

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Tips:

  • The Éislek’s regional tourist office offers guided tours of Bourscheid Castle for groups, carried out by qualified tour guides.
     

  • Useldange castle admission is free for self-guided tours but there are also guided tours of 90 minutes.
     

  • With its abundance of landmarks, stunning nature, and historic towns, a tour of the Valley of the Seven Castles is a must for anyone looking to expand their knowledge of Luxembourg.