Poetic in conception, purist in execution
In the historic Bourglinster Castle, a stone’s throw from Luxembourg’s capital, René Mathieu conjures up star quality cuisine to enchant his guests. Plants and vegetables play the leading role – against a backdrop of imaginative stories in which the forest has a very special part.
René Mathieu is in his element in the forest. Within the first 30 metres, he has plucked four or five edible treasures from the forest floor redolent with the fragrance of fresh earth. And the constant refrain is: “Here, try this!” Deftly he divides the narrow stem into several tasting portions. It has a herb-like taste, fresh, reminiscent of a familiar vegetable – and for good reason: “That is wild celery,” the head chef in the historic Château de Bourglinster reveals.
Upon conclusion of the herb hunt, Mathieu will have presented a good dozen plants and herbs, very different parts of which will subsequently end up on the plate: sometimes he uses the sweet bitterness of the bracken fern root to lend aroma, sometimes flowers, leaves or stems are used.